I like to refer to the time period between January 15th and March 1st as "Deepest, Darkest Winter". The holidays are over, and what was desirable around the end of December - snow, winter chill, etc... - is no longer so appealing. Winter has taken a firm hold and the temperatures have plunged. The snow isn't fluffy and charming, it's heavy and dirty. Days are short, though slowly lengthening. Unless you are into winter sports, all you want to do is stay inside where it is warm.
That is why this is the best time of year to pull out your favorite, hearty soup recipes. One of my all-time favorites is a Mediterranean spiced red lentil soup. Known as Potage Esau after the biblical character who sold his birthright to his brother, Jacob, for just one bowl of this delicious soup/potage/stew. There are many recipes for this soup that use different types of lentils, but the bible describes the soup/stew as red. So red lentils it is! Remember that tomatoes were not known to the ancients of the Near East, but red lentils were. This is a great vegetarian soup!
Potage Esau Serves 6 to 8
Olive oil for sauteing
1 medium Spanish onion, chopped
3 medium carrots, diced small
3 celery stalks, diced small
1 fennel bulb, diced small
3 garlic cloves, chopped
3 cups red lentils
6 to 8 cups water
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Heat a large pot over medium-high heat and lightly coat the bottom with olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to lightly brown. Do this in batches if needed. Add 2 cups of the lentils, 6 cups of water, the coriander, cumin, and lemon juice. Cook until the lentils begin to fall apart, about 15 to 20 minutes. After 15 to 20 minutes, check for seasoning, and add the remaining lentils. Cook for an additional 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Add more water if the soup is too thick, and adjust seasoning. Simmer for an additional 5 minutes and serve.
This year, the Jewish Tree Festival, Tu B'Shvat, falls on January 30th. Think of it as the forerunner of Arbor Day. It is a minor holiday that is celebrated by the planting of trees, especially in Israel.
Throughout the world, Jews eat foods on Tu B'Shvat that are characteristic of the land of Israel, especially the seven types of fruits and grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8. However, any fruit or nut that comes from a tree can be enjoyed as part of the holiday celebration. It's a great way to remind ourselves that Springtime, with its promise of new life, is not far off.
Here is a recipe for a very traditional Spanish (Galician) almond cake. It would fit perfectly into any holiday celebration. Also note that it contains mostly tree related ingredients: olive oil, lemon, cinnamon, and almonds. It also contains wheat which is one of the grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8.
Spanish Almond Cake (Galicia) Serves 8
olive oil and flour for pan
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups almond flour
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
confectioners' sugar for dusting
Center oven rack and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Oil and flour a 9 inch spring-form cake pan.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest, cinnamon, granulated sugar, and salt. Whisk together until foamy. Add the almond flour and mix well. Add the flour and mix until just incorporated. Be sure that the batter is smooth and that there is no dry flour remaining towards the bottom.
Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.
Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. After 10 minutes, carefully run a knife around the edge of the cake to be sure that it is not sticking to the pan. Remove the collar and allow the cake to cool to room temperature. When cool, invert the cake and remove the pan bottom.
Place cake upright on a serving plate. Dust the top with confectioners' sugar.
The history of Jews in Iraq can be traced back to the Babylonian Exile in 586 B.C.E.. After Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon (part of modern-day Iraq), destroyed Judah (Judea) and the first Temple in Jerusalem, he decided to put an end to the Jewish state once and for all. He took the most influential citizens into captivity back in Babylon, and left only the poorest citizens behind. The result of this was the growth of a thriving Babylonian Jewish community, even more magnificent than that of ancient Palestine. Babylon would become the focus of Judaism for more than a thousand years*.
Babylonia became the seat of Jewish learning and wisdom. Great academies of Jewish learning were founded by the great Rabbis who would eventually be the first to write down the Mishnah (Jewish Oral Law), and its commentary, the Talmud.
For the most part, the Jewish community did well in this part of the world. Jews became high ranking officials in the government, owned businesses, and enjoyed peaceful relations with the native population. There were times of strife. As is usually the case, people became jealous of the Jews and their abilities to become successful and wealthy. Things became worse after Babylonia was conquered by Sassanid Persians in 226 C.E.*.
The rise of Islam opened a new chapter in the lives of Babylonian Jews. It started well. Jews were taxed along with all other non-Muslims, but for the most part they were treated well and maintained their high positions. As time went on though, persecutions became more frequent. There were good times and bad. It wasn't until the Ottoman Turks gained final control of the area in 1638 that life for the Jews became secure*. Over time however, centralized Turkish control waned, and the situation for the Jews worsened. The Jewish population continued to grow.
This brings us to modern Iraq. After gaining its independence (with Jewish support) in 1932, Iraq started out as a safe place for Jews. The first Iraqi Minister of Finance, Sir Sassoon Eskel, was Jewish. Jews also played important roles in setting up other areas of the fledgling Iraqi Government*. Jewish and Arab Iraqis lived and worked together, and saw themselves as one people.
It wasn't until the mid 1930's and through the 1940's that trouble started. That trouble was fueled by Nazi propaganda (Iraq had ties to the Axis powers) and the ongoing conflict in the Palestinian Mandate. On August 27, 1934 life for the Jews of Iraq, the Jews of ancient Babylon, changed forever. On this day laws were enacted that dismissed Jews from the government, set up quotas in colleges and universities, and made it illegal to teach Jewish history and Hebrew in Jewish schools! It was the beginning of the end. On June 1st and 2nd, 1941 a pogrom broke out in Baghdad and approximately 200 (probably more) Jews were openly murdered, and another 2,000 were injured. The founding of the state of Israel in 1948 caused even more problems for the Jews of Iraq, and by 1951 Israel instituted Operation Ezra and Nehemiah to bring Iraqi Jews to the safety of the nascent Jewish state*.
Things got progressively worse over the years to the point where a population of well over 120,000 Jewish Iraqis has dwindled to a population, at last count, of 8. 8 Jews left in what was once the greatest center of Jewish civilization. And it is all because of HATE!!!
HATE!!!
Hatred and lies. The usual story when it comes to the Jews. Pure, unabashed, organic hate. It's despicable.
Hatred against the Jews is still rampant in Iraq today, as it is in all of the Islamic world. The following video was recorded in Iraq on February 14, 2003. In it a shameful Imam calls for the genocide of the Jewish people. He is ridiculous, and is condemned by his own words. It is almost easy to dismiss this as the insane ravings of a lunatic, but if you close your eyes and listen, it is strikingly reminiscent of Hitler at Nuremberg.
This is obscene. This is a mark of shame against all of humanity.
What shall we do?
How about trying to learn the truth about people, who they are and what they believe? The best way that I know how to do that is with food. When you sit down to eat with someone, when you nourish yourself as they do, you are given the opportunity to glimpse the beauty of their humanity. This is the beauty of the table. This is why fast food is such a bad idea - there is no opportunity to commune with our fellows. The table is communion.
In order to get to know the Iraqi Jewish community better, here is a recipe for one of their best known dishes - Tabyit. It is spiced chicken stuffed with meat and rice, that is cooked with more rice in a spicy tomato sauce. This dish is traditionally served for lunch on the Sabbath. It is one of the great, slow cooked dishes that are hallmarks of Jewish cuisine. As kindling fire and cooking are activities that are not permitted on the Sabbath, this dish is begun on Fridays before sundown. It is then allowed to continue cooking in a very low oven for 14 - 18 hours! nowadays, slow cookers are also used for these types of dishes. The final result is a very tender and flavorful dish. These types of dishes are known as hamin (pronounced Ha'meen). They include dishes such as Eastern European cholent and North African dafina.
The Tabyit is served with other traditional dishes upon returning from the synagogue on Saturday afternoon.
Tabyit Serves 8
4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil
1 large, whole chicken
3 1/2 cups basmati rice
1 pound ground chuck
1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes
3 teaspoons tomato paste
1 medium onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground cardamom
1 tablespoon ground allspice
salt and pepper to taste
cayenne pepper to taste
3 cups water
Rinse the chicken thoroughly, and pat dry. Blend the cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice together. Season the chicken inside and out with salt, pepper, and half of the spice blend. Set aside.
To make the filling:
Wash and soak 1 1/2 cups of basmati rice for 30 minutes. After soaking, drain the rice and put it into a large mixing bowl. Add the meat and half of the diced tomatoes with their liquid. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. I recommend 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Mix everything together. Add half of remaining spice mix and blend thoroughly.
Stuff the filling into the cavity of the chicken. Don't be afraid to pack it tightly. After stuffing, either truss the cavity closed, or tie the legs together in such a way that it somewhat seals the cavity (like a Thanksgiving turkey).
To cook:
Place a large, heavy, non-stick pot or a stove-safe slow cooker insert over medium high heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the chicken, breast side down. Allow to brown as best as possible, and then turn it over. Continue in this manner until the chicken is fairly brown all over. Remove the chicken and set aside.
Add onion to hot oil and saute until translucent. Add remaining tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir to dissolve the tomato paste. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. I recommend 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add remaining spice mix. Add 3 cups of water and bring to a boil.
In the mean time, wash and soak the remaining rice for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pot. Add the chicken back to the pot positioning it so that it sits on its back in the middle of the pot. Bring the pot back to a boil, cover, and immediately place into a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. Allow to cook slowly for at least 12 hours, but it can be cooked up to 18 hours. Alternately, place insert into slow cooker and cook on low for 18 hours.
To serve:
Carefully remove chicken from the pot. It will fall apart, but try to be gentle. Place on a platter and surround with the rice. A crispy crust should have formed on the bottom of the pot. Place this on top of the rice and be sure that everyone gets a piece as this is the best part. Serve with a simple salad to round out the meal.
You can never have enough cookie recipes in your arsenal. I love the all-American Chocolate Chip Cookie, but sometimes they can become boring. This is a fun variation on the classic Chocolate Chip Cookie. The addition of ground hazelnuts gives this chewy cookie a Praline-like character. They are so good, that I bet that you can't eat just one!
Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookies Makes 3 dozen cookies
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup hazelnut flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups best quality semisweet chocolate chips
Position oven racks to center of oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or use Silpats.
Mix flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, and salt together using a whisk.
Using a mixer, cream butter and sugars together until light and fluffy. Scrape sides and bottom of the bowl. Add eggs 1 at a time and beat in thoroughly. Add the vanilla, mix in, and scrape the bowl again.
Add flour mixture and blend on low until just incorporated. Add the chocolate chips and blend until they are well distributed. Allow dough to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
After dough has rested, scoop out 1/4 cup portions, roll into a ball, then divide the ball in half. Place each half on prepared baking pans until you have 12 cookies per pan. Bake for 14 to 15 minutes. For best results, bake only 1 pan at a time. When finished, remove cookies to a cooling rack. Best served warm, but these cookies will keep for a week in a covered container.
Challah is a most wonderful bread! Not only is it used by Jewish People in their weekly Sabbath Ritual, it also makes the world's best French Toast! The rich egg dough is very Brioche-like, but not quite as delicate. It is also easier to make. There are many recipes for Challah. Some use dairy products, some do not. Since Challah is part of the Sabbath Dinner, where typically meat is served, it is traditional to make a Challah that is dairy free. This is in keeping with the Biblical command to not mix meat and milk. Also, it is customary to make 2 loaves of Challah to symbolize the double portion of Manna that the Israelites gathered in the desert prior to the Sabbath, as no work was to be done on the Sabbath. Modern Challah, which bears little resemblance to Manna, is actually an adaptation of a rich, braided, egg-laden, Central European/German Bread that is a relative of Brioche. The Ashkenazic Jews of this area adapted it as their Sabbath loaf because of its fine richness - a far cry from their heavy, rustic, daily loaves.
Challah Makes 2 large loaves
6 1/2 to 7 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons honey
scant 1/2 cup neutral flavored oil (such as canola)
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine 2 cups of the flour, the yeast, and the warm water. Mix together until all of the flour is moistened. Cover and let the yeast proof in a warm place for 1 hour. After 1 hour, the flour mixture should be active and bubbly. This is the starter sponge. While the sponge is forming, lightly oil a baking sheet and put aside.
Add all of remaining ingredients to the sponge, except the remaining flour, and begin mixing with the dough hook attachment. Once the mixture begins to come together, begin adding flour until a smooth dough is formed that does not stick to the bowl. You may not need all of the flour, but you will probably need most of it. Once the dough begins to pull away from the bowl, increase the mixer speed until the dough begins to slap against the sides of the bowl. If the dough begins to stick at all, add more flour 1 tablespoon at a time. You want the dough to be a cohesive whole that freely moves around the bowl, slapping loudly. Knead in this manor for 15 minutes. (Your mixer will get hot, so don't worry. Also, you will want to hold on to the mixer during this process so that it does not "walk" off the counter!)
After 15 minutes, cover the dough, and allow to rest in a warm place for at least 2 hours. After 2 hours, place dough an a very lightly floured surface and divide into 8 equal portions. Roll each of the 8 portions into thick "snakes" about 10 inches long. Each loaf will be made of 4 of these "snakes".
To Braid The Challah: 1 2 3 4 Line up 4 of the dough "snakes" in a row like this, llll. Begin braiding in the middle by placing piece 4 over piece 3. Then, place piece 2 over piece 4. Finally place piece 1 UNDER piece 4. Repeat. Continue in this manor until you reach the end. Then, gather all of the ends together and tuck them under the loaf. Flip loaf around, and repeat exactly on the other side until you reach the other end. Again, tuck the gathered ends under the loaf. Transfer braided loaf to prepared baking pan. Braid second loaf, and place on same pan, leaving enough room for the challah to rise. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, leave in a warm place, and allow to rise for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Begin preheating oven to 350 degrees.
Before the loaves are baked , you must egg wash them to give a shiny appearance. You will need:
1 egg
1 teaspoon water
sesame or poppy seeds, optional
Whisk egg and water together thoroughly. Gently brush loaves with egg wash, being careful to cover all exposed surfaces without allowing egg to pool on baking sheet around loaves. Sprinkle with seed garnish if desired.
Bake in middle of preheated oven for 40 to 45 minutes. When fully baked, Challah will sound hollow when thumped on the bottom, and will be a rich mahogany brown color.
Remove immediately from baking pan and allow to cool completely on a wire cooling rack. Best enjoyed fresh (of course), but it will keep for 1 week if wrapped tightly.
Wow! What a time of transition it has been! Sorry that I have been away for a while, but there have been many changes going on at Beyond The Kitchen Wall. The biggest change was moving from the Estate in Glencoe, Illinois to a temporary house in Wilmette, Illinois. It was hard to leave my Kitchen and Garden behind, but that's life... I also managed to squeeze a fantastic honeymoon to Paris in there as well. It was great to return to the City of Lights after many years. Paris is magical and renewed my passions for French Cuisine and the French People.
That being said, it is time to get back to business. And my business is FOOD! I have been working on many recipes in my absence and hope to share them with you in the coming weeks.
We are at the threshold of the Holiday Season, Thanksgiving is this Thursday in the U.S. I wanted to share a recipe that features an ingredient that figures very prominently in the Thanksgiving celebration and during the Holiday Season as a whole, namely Pumpkin. I love pumpkin and am a die hard pumpkin pie fan, but there are other things that you can do with this ingredient. One of my favorite new recipes is for Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines. It is a very French way to use an all-American ingredient.
These "cookies" are incredibly easy to prepare because I use good old canned pumpkin puree. Their texture is pure madeleine, crispy on the outside and cakey-soft on the inside. Also, like true madeleines, this texture is fleeting. They are at their zenith of perfection while still warm from the oven. They begin to decline quickly, and should be consumed the same day that they are prepared. After a day, they become soft and "wet"/sticky. They still taste great, but they lack the hallmark madeleine texture. This really should not be a problem though, because they are so good that they won't be around that long!
Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines Makes about 2 1/2 dozen
4 large eggs, separated
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1 cup canned pumpkin puree
1 tablespoon Madagascar vanilla extract
3/4 cups cake flour
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, browned
In a small saucepan over medium-low heat begin to melt the butter. Once the butter melts, allow it to gently cook until it begins to turn a light brown color. Immediately turn off heat and allow butter to sit. It will continue to brown as it rests. If your butter gets too dark, start over.
Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a mixer along with half of the sugar. Beat on high speed until sugar melts and yolks become a pale yellow. Add pumpkin puree and vanilla and beat on low until just mixed together.
Place egg whites in a separate mixer bowl and beat on high speed until they reach soft peaks. Add remaining sugar and continue beating until egg whites are stiff and glossy.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, and spices.
Whisk 1/3 of the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture to lighten the batter. Then in 2 batches, gently fold in remaining egg whites using a large rubber spatula. Sprinkle flour mixture gently over the top of the batter and fold until combined. Be sure that there are no pockets of flour at the bottom of the bowl. Finally, add 6 tablespoons of the reserved brown butter, reserving 2 tablespoons to grease the madeleine pan. Cover batter and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.
To bake:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees and place oven rack in middle position. Lightly butter a madeleine pan with the reserved brown butter. Be sure that no butter pools in the bottom of the shells as this will distort the final appearance. Place 1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons of batter in each shell mold. I find that a small portion scooper works best for this. Place in hot oven and bake for 14 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and invert madeleines onto a cooling rack. If they stick, just bang a corner of the pan on the rack and they will come right out. Allow to cool to warm and serve immediately. They may be kept for 1 day, uncovered.
Have you heard of the enchanting flavor called Ispahan? It is an exotic blend of raspberry, litchi, and rose. This flavor was invented/discovered by Master Pastry Chef, Pierre Herme. If you have not yet tried Ispahan, a whole new flavor world awaits you! Words cannot describe the other-worldliness of this flavor. It is like some sort of Heavenly perfume that dances upon your palate and leaves you longing for more.
I was first introduced to this flavor at the French Pastry School in Chicago, while attending a reception for Chef Herme. From the moment that I tasted it, I was hooked. I ate more Ispahan macaroons that evening than I care to admit. The flavor was so haunting, so soulful, so elegant, so SEXY, that it became imprinted on my psyche! All things Ispahan became my quest. I studied the flavor, researched its name and origin. As it turns out, it is named after the Ispahan Rose. There is also a city in Persia/Iran called Ispahan. This is very fitting for a flavor that transports you to a far-off, mysterious place!
The 19th century poet, Thomas Bailey Aldrichcaptured the flavorful mystique of Ispahan in his classic verse:
When the Sultan Goes to Ispahan
When the Sultan, Shah-Zaman
Goes to the city Ispahan,
Even before he gets so far
As the place where the clustered palm-trees are,
At the last of the thirty palace-gates
The pet of the harem, Rose-in-Bloom,
Orders a feast in his favorite room--
Glittering square of colored ice,
Sweetened with syrup, tinctured with spice,
Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates,
Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces,
Limes and citrons and apricots,
And wines that are known to Eastern princes.
The simplest way to experience Ispahan is to make the following sorbet recipe. It is very simple, but it lets the pure, clean flavors of the ingredients shine through. This is my recipe. It is my Homage to Pierre Herme. It is a humble tribute to one of my Culinary Heroes.
This sorbet is great on its own, served as an Intermezzo, or as a compliment to Middle Eastern and Persian Desserts. If sorbet can be sexy, this definitely fits the bill!
Raspberry, Litchi, and Rose Water Sorbet (Sorbet Ispahan) Makes slightly more than 1 Quart
8 ounces fresh raspberries, or frozen raspberry puree
8 ounces fresh litchi pulp, or frozen litchi puree
12 ounces granulated sugar
2 cups water
1 tablespoon rose water**
1 tablespoon lemon juice
pinch of salt
Place fresh fruits or purees, sugar, and 1 cup water in a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute. Pour blended fruit through a fine strainer to remove seeds and large solids. Press on residue in the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Add remaining ingredients to strained fruit, mix thoroughly, cover, and chill overnight. This allows the flavors to marry perfectly. The next day, pour sorbet base into an ice cream freezer and spin for 20 to 30 minutes. Once frozen, transfer to a quart container (there will be extra for you to try!!!). Allow to cure in the freezer 2 to 4 hours. That's it!
** Rose Water can be found at Whole Foods Market, in Middle Eastern stores, or is available online from the Spice House.
I am a Personal/Private Chef with many years of restaurant experience. I offer Personal Chef Services in the Chicago Metropolitan Area. Contact me today via e-mail!
I like to refer to the time period between January 15th and March 1st as "Deepest, Darkest Winter". The holidays are over, and what was desirable around the end of December - snow, winter chill, etc... - is no longer so appealing. Winter has taken a firm hold and the temperatures have plunged. The snow isn't fluffy and charming, it's heavy and dirty. Days are short, though slowly lengthening. Unless you are into winter sports, all you want to do is stay inside where it is warm.
